Politically, the highlands are part of the cities. For example, a vast area of mountain territory is technically part of Cebu City on one side of the island, and Balamban town on the other island. Moreover, a large proportion of the mountainous area around Cebu City is classified as a watershed area. Due to these and other factors, development in the highlands has hardly taken place, which is probably a good thing, allowing the way of life in the highlands to be preserved.

Having said that, unlike the forests of Mindanao or Palawan, the highlands of Cebu have long been devoid of tribal inhabitants. In addition, a large amount of deforestation has taken place.

The highlands are sparsely populated and maintain an economy which is a mere blip on the economic map of the province. The three agricultural products that are exported to the cities are mangoes, cut flowers, and vegetables. The mango trees are, however, almost entirely owned by city folk, and the peasants who baby the mango trees - spraying the trees and individually protecting the fruit from birds and insects with paper pockets - and secure the harvest only receive a meager income.

In addition, a large proportion of highlanders eke out a living turning bamboo into barbecue sticks, for which there is an insatiable demand in Cebu City.

This is tiring work. Mountain folk wake up at at the crack of dawn - around 5 AM - and fashion the sticks by carefully splitting, shaving, and sharpening the bamboo. The sticks are then laid out to dry in the sun, to evaporate the natural moisture content. About a hundred sticks are packed into a bundle, which retails for 5 pesos. The mountain folk sell it to dealers at about 2.50, or around 5 cents. Other mountain products include charcoal and firewood, where profit margins are even slimmer.

City folk will tell you that the mountains are bleak, desolate, and cold. They are correct, though I'd prefer to use the words quiet, peaceful, and cool.

Locals are constantly complaining of landslides and collapsed sections, but the Trans-Central remains a beautiful work of engineering as well as a convenient way to reach the highlands. The road flows languidly past hills and along the central ridge - where you can get radio stations from both Negros and Cebu - and winds steeply down the mountain as it descends towards the coast. Gradually, banana plantations will come into view as you approach sea level. The scenery is breathtaking all the way.

You cannot enjoy the Trans-Central on public transportation; all buses and V-hires from Cebu City to the other side of the island pass via Naga, in the south. The road there is terrible, and so is the traffic, but that route is also preferred by private Cebuano drivers, due to the heavy fog that descends on the Trans-Central prior to dusk.

As a consequence, traffic on the Trans-Central is light; during night or day, barely any vehicles use the highway at all and you can experience utter desolation rare in the Philippines.

The Trans-Central Highway commences in Lahug; from J Y Square take the street climbing up the hill. You'll pass the upmarket Nivel Hills, the structure of the defunct Cebu Plaza Hotel, and Tops. The trip to Balamban town takes about an hour and a half; more during heavy fog.